Verdict? Not at all bad. Big range of foods – carbonara was little too creamy (original raw egg and no cream always the best), thin sliced minute steak pink and juicy. It was kinda still morning, so the poached eggs and sausage seemed to fit the bill. Sashimi, pork spare ribs, fried cod. All good filling Sunday after the Saturday grub.

Included is a glass of sparkling wine, fruit juices and soft drinks. Oh. And the waitress double checked that I booked.

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Panini also has a good selection of beers. Did anybody go in the evening?

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From the outside, Fengdu is an unassuming place, lit truly Hangzhou style, i.e. brilliantly (maybe to keep the staff awake at 3am) and without any thought to aesthetic. (Well, the place is for eating at, not looking at). Of course those bright lights draw ominous attention immediately on entering to the large jugs of snake juice behind the cashier. There is nothing like snake juice to start the evening, or for that matter to finish it off. And it’s supposed to be good for you. The restaurant is only a few shades above grubby, perhaps worn is the apt word. But definitely one of those places I don’t really want to go into the kitchen to help. However, just about everything that comes out of the kitchen is good.

The restaurant is famous for the chicken stock that goes into the chicken noodles and rice soup. There must be a section of the kitchen devoted to boiling carcasses as the stock flows out in huge bowls of noodles, steaming. The stock is so thick and tasty it is almost sticky. Spectacular. Don’t tune up a nose to the rice soup either – normally a rather bland dish, the stock makes it.

The menu is Chinese only. I have offered to translate it, but I think the owners are worried that my fee might be free food for the rest of time. And they might be right about that. There aren’t even any photos. So it’s time to practise language or leave it up the boss and hope. I can hardly walk past the place without rushing in for the Shrimp fried with Meigancai – I have no idea what that is in English – oddly the rich flavours of the dried vegetables mixes perfectly with the shrimp. There is a pretty good Braised pork over spring onion, although it isn’t on the menu. Refried pork is fantastic, the Family fried doufu is not what you might expect, using old doufu instead of the delicious deep-fried crispy silk doufu. (How do they fry that stuff without breaking it?) Deep-fried spicy chicken is a must, along with the bacon and potato fry. And the black fish soup?

Last but not least, give the snake juice the respect it deserves and have some. The boss takes it seriously, makes it himself, and drinks it too. There is more than just snake in there too. I would suggest trying the stuff before looking. For a good warm up, split one serving between two – the stuff should have an ‘inflammable’ warning on the glass. And even if it isn’t good for you in the long term, what the hell, it is very good in the short term.

And you could always pop over to Provence for some coffee after.

Always open
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The secret of success is Ye Dan, the erstwhile owner. He’s been running bars, in a seemingly hands-off approach for years. He makes sure staff are good, prices are cheap, and puts on good tunes with visiting DJs. And some great chicken wings too – order 2 or 3 portions to save you ordering more.

It’s a little tricky to see from the road, and when you do find it, you’ll kick yourself for not noticing the 4 foot number 7 in bright red neon just outside the door. As a hint, if you are coming from the Yellow Dragon Stadium, go past the Dragon Hotel, and you will see a flower shop on the right just after the bus stop. 7 Club is behind the flower shop.

Supremely relaxed place.

5pm – 2am
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If you have any photos of this place, mail them in

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You cant really see the place as you go in the main entrances of departures. So trust me, look for the big section number signs on the huge columns holding up that amazing roof, and follow around the departures ring until you get to 14. It’s up the stairs behind you.

Bricco Cafe, Shanghai South Railway Station, departures ring section 14.

Me Too used to advertise itself as being on Lishui Road 丽水路, but nobody could find the place, so now they tell everybody they are on Jinhua Road 金华路 which makes everything much simpler. You’ll probably walk in the front into a bright conservatory style room and this is where you’ll want to sit if not full already. The big room behind, through some high arches, is a little darker, and chairs a little harder and more upright, great for a laptop. I was armed with one so that was area of choice, and in any case a mate was sat on the corner of the conservatory with a very pretty girl, and I didn’t want to disturb them. I am sure it was business…

There’s pasta on the menu, along with pizza and a load of ‘business set menus’ – you know the things, Hainan chicken and rice, black pepper fried beef over rice, probably some curry as well. I munched hungrily a bowl bolognaise spaghetti  – nothing much to write home about but tasty, and drank loads of some no-brand soda water and constant stream of delicious Illy coffee (second cup is half price). All good. Double Star got written up quickly over the fast wifi before another mate walked in (this one luckily unaccompanied) and more coffee came. It would seem that Me Too has a quite a crowd of Hangzhou north and west friends.

The place is no smoking and there are signs up ‘SShhhhh!’, so providing there is a chair spare, you can get on with work.

IFE Cafe, 418 Xixi Road | 西溪路418号

You have to order at the bar, and if the menu above the bar is a little challenging ask for the English one. There is a range of noodles and other goodies, but I am normally in there alone and a couple of plates of jiaozi is just perfect.

And if you’re at a loss to do something after dinner, go down to Wensan Xi Lu and buy some DVDs on the corner.

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