Given the less than stellar amount of variety of entertainment in this holiday city, it is surprising that somebody had the courage to open a jazz bar, and even more surprising that the bar is seriously successful. If you want to sip tea, or drink tasteless overpriced coffee, join a very nonexclusive Exclusive Club, or play dice with a bunch of delightful young girls while being deafened by some of the worst music ever played, there is a veritable smorgasbord of places all offering exactly the same.

But if you want something that isnt tasteless mainstream, you have to look a little harder. Right at the top of your research list will be JZ. It is certainly one of the most sophisticated places in Hangzhou. Well decorated in a darkened modern way and with huge velvet curtain backed stage showing off a Yamaha Grand. A long wine list, cigars, a range of single malts, cocktails galore and well dressed (mostly) clientele all add to the impression that you might possibly have teleported out of China when you walked in.

JZ is really a jazz bar. They are tightly linked with the famous JZ in Shanghai, and they share music acts. Normally there is house band playing a month or 2 run, and on some weekends JZ pulls in touring bands from all over the world. The man responsible for this real escape in Hangzhou is Zhang Zheng, who has a long history in music in China and in the bar scene cut his teach in a wildly popular rock music pub, Traveller’s on Shuguang Road, (旅行者曙光路) which now in its umpteenth year is still packed every night.

The bands start at about 9.30 and the place will probably be full by then, so try booking a table – unlike many places in Hangzhou, they do respect your reservation as long as you’re nearly on time. Or try going a little earlier and getting a little something to eat. It is mostly Italian food.