Lei Lei makes the best dumplings in the world. It’s not open to discussion. And she knows it. The place is full, too busy for delivery, extra cash for hot sauce and paper napkins cost 1Y a pack. But go anyway. My favourite is the 贵妃肉 (guifeirou – Dont know what’s in it). For me, I like to eat 2 plates, maybe one lot steamed and the other fried and this wickedly hot iron plate. You might be hungry, but do not go anywhere near those fried ones for at least 5 minutes unless 3rd degree burns on your tongue are fun. Can never tell which ones are best which way, but they do, and grimace if you get wrong. Nevermind, do what they suggest.

You have to order at the bar, and if the menu above the bar is a little challenging ask for the English one. There is a range of noodles and other goodies, but I am normally in there alone and a couple of plates of jiaozi is just perfect.

And if you’re at a loss to do something after dinner, go down to Wensan Xi Lu and buy some DVDs on the corner.

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